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This season, Namacheko’s Dilan Lurr was inspired by the connection he saw between the “Ugly Duckling,” the fairy tale by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen, and his own story as an immigrant, particularly his late-blooming sense of pride in his heritage.
“We lived in a neighborhood where we were the only immigrant family and in school, I had an extra class to learn Swedish faster. It was beautiful and I didn’t feel any racism, but that the feeling of outsider-ship was there,” said the designer, who moved to Sweden at age 9 from Iraq. It was only when he started the label and filmed its early designs on family members that he started to feel pride in his Kurdish roots, he added.
The lineup centered on the moment the duckling realizes it had been a swan all along, packing a wealth of references, from his family’s heritage and jewelry-making, to garments he found ugly – and even a nod to “Star Wars.”
Namacheko RTW Spring 2022
35 Photos
Lurr liked how the sci-fi film franchise showed different people and species connecting. It served as the basis for his film’s ambiance, shot in a Brutalist church in Belgium, and influenced his choice of showroom, a Space Age room in the depths of the French Communist Party’s headquarters.
These disparate ideas still came together into a cohesive ensemble with a futuristic and unisex spin — even the midi-length shifts.
Standing out were the knitwear in openwork geometric patterns; workwear-inspired, paint-coated denim jackets and colorized acid-washed jeans; a leather blouson with metal tassels and stylized coin-shaped buttons; tracksuits cut from heavyweight silk; and a coat featuring pockets with edge-trimming inspired by Kurdish embroideries.
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