The Birdcage is back, and Flemington’s most prestigious precinct has had a nip and tuck. For the first time, the area is even open to non-members, provided they have $1800 for a spot at the Victoria Racing Club’s own tent, dubbed Villa Paradiso.
“What cost-of-living crisis?” I hear you say, mockingly.
Well, 350 of the seven-course dining packages have already sold out for Saturday, Derby Day, and Melbourne Cup, and no expense has been spared at the other marquees, from the custom moss green Bentwood chairs in the Lexus marquee to the $160,000 barrel of Penfolds Magill Cellar 3 2019 South Australian Cabernet Shiraz for the winning connections of Saturday’s Derby winner.
Kennedy is hosting some of its highest-spending clients trackside.Credit:Scott McNaughton
You can learn a lot about the trackside pecking order from a peek around the Birdcage, as we did on Thursday morning, when hard hats briefly outnumbered other headwear as tradies put the finishing touches on the tents.
So, which marquee will be party central, where has oysters for brunch and foie gras for afternoon tea, and what do the offerings tell us about the state of the economy, and the world more generally, in 2022?
LEXUS
Like a fine fragrance, which The Raconteur created especially for the pavilion, Lexus’ three levels have distinct personalities: moody dining downstairs, relaxed race-viewing from the terrace, and upstairs for chill. And there’s a concept car or two to ogle.
Former Geelong skipper Joel Selwood (right) samples the 2018 Grange at Penfolds.Credit:Scott McNaughton
PENFOLDS
The newbie sponsor clearly hasn’t suffered any ill effects of the economic downturn, and will serve its guests, including outgoing Geelong skipper Joel Selwood and fashion designer Pip Edwards, tastings of its “six-times perfect” 2018 Grange.
MUMM
Having earned a reputation for stunts including a swimming pool and rocket ship, Mumm has read the room and opted for something more sophisticated – but no less luxurious. A lucky few invited guests will dine in a private space for eight, with dishes designed by Joel Bickford, culinary director of Sydney’s “it” venue, Shell House.
Australian model Duckie Thot does the ‘tap-tap’ at Mumm.Credit:Getty
KENNEDY
Neither COVID nor the rising cost of living has rubbed the gloss off luxury watch sales, and it shows in the marquee, which will host some of Melbourne’s best-dressed wrists. Don’t expect too many celebrities, this marquee is about giving back to the big spenders.
FURPHY
Bright, airy and with prime views of the home turn, this is the pub you wish was in your neighbourhood. What it may lack in luxury it makes up for in relaxed hospitality, and an elevated food-and-beer matching menu; it’s the biggest marquee of the lot, too.
VILLA PARADISO
The pyjama-party antics of 1 Oliver Street in 2019 have been replaced with a more refined all-day dining experience. For $1800, guests can enjoy seven courses and free-flowing drinks – but no direct view of the track from the VRC’s own tent.
TABCORP
Centre of power … TABCorp’s marquee.Credit:Tash Sorensen
Forget the celebrity-heavy marquees, this is where the top end of town come to talk turkey. With a Victorian state election just weeks away, this will be prime real estate for those wanting to grab the ear of a politician.
PARAMOUNT
If the words “Eddie McGuire dancing on a couch” aren’t enough to wrangle the title of “party central” from Mumm, perhaps the Los Angeles-inspired space with tropical-themed cocktails will do the trick.
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